Thursday 27 October 2016
Saturday 13 June 2015
So, I made it and am home now!
It's hard to capsulize in a blog the last 5 weeks of walking and living "the Camino". The last 5 days of hiking was so different than the first 4 weeks but had it's own charm. I met so many new people and reconnected with many I had "lost" over the weeks. The hike from Ribadizo to Pedrouzo was supposed to be about 22 kms but came in close to 27. We left the Albergue early in the morning, thankfully, so made it to Pedrouzo before the heat arrived. Birgitta and I had decided to get up around 5:30 and sneak out of the dorms before daylight so we wouldn't battle the heat. We are really good at getting dressed and out extremely quickly and quietly and both managed to get up and out in a few minutes. I grabbed my shoes out of the shoe closet (yes, this is a "must" in most places to keep the smell to a minimum). The closet was in the dorm closest to the exit so getting the shoes quietly in the dark meant remembering where it was and which shelf I put my shoes on (while holding my pack). Success! And quietly open the door and sneak out! Whew! And then my elbow hit the switch on the outside of the door....which apparently controls the main lights in the dorm rooms. ACK! Find the switch, turn it off and feel really bad about turning the lights on for all those sleeping people. I think that I need to tell Birgitta that we better get out of this place quickly before we are killed. I am sitting on the couch by the door, tying my shoes and getting all sorted for the day and Birgitta makes the same exit I did from the dorms, all quiet and contained and ....yep, her elbow hits the light switch too. Now we really have to make a fast exit! Who would put the main light switch for the sleeping rooms on the outside? I wonder how many times that has happened?
So, off we go and have a pretty good hiking day. We arrived in Pedrouzo by noon, just as the heat started in earnest. We found our Albergue and had showers, did laundry, the usual chores and headed up to the main street (Calle Mayor) to find lunch...pretty hungry by then usually. The heat was like a punch in the face by then so we staggered up and found some salads and of course, Clara.
We saw some police and ambulances race by back the way we came and wondered what was up. Sadly, a pilgrim was killed crossing the highway just a few kms back on the second last day of the walk. It's horrible to think of it happening to anyone but how horrible to happen then and probably so far from home. Some of the highway crossings were scary, on curves and busy highways. In the heat, you just get into walking one foot in front of the other and maybe not pay close attention. I don't know what happened for sure but it shook everyone up.
The rest of the afternoon was pretty much lying on the bunk waiting for evening to come and the heat to abate. Salad again for dinner because that's all that I could manage.
The last day into Santiago, we were up and out of the Albergue by 5 am and into Santiago by 10. It was supposed to hit 30 by noon so we wanted to miss that. It got hot but much later so we had some extra time. We hiked in the gloom with a headlamp for more than an hour through the forest tracks. By the time the sun was up, we were into the industrial area and near the airport. It was a bit strange to suddenly be out of the rural area into industrial and when we found our spot for "second breakfast"...This one being the first as we only had a pastry and coffee from a machine in the Albergue before we left...14 kms before. It was strange going to a place where they asked you to keep your shoes on (on the trail, shoes come off right away when you sit down) and we could only get a cafe con leche and croissant. We've been having omelette for our second breakfast when we can as it sticks with us better than bread.
Arriving in Santiago means many more kms on sidewalks through the city to the Cathedral. The bagpiper under the archway to the Cathedral is pretty great to hear. The area has a strong Celtic influence which is lovely.
In front of the Cathedral is a reunion of many people we have seen over the weeks. We found the pilgrims office and got our Compostela and certificate of distance. There was a line up but it was worth it. We went to the Pilgrims mass at noon after dropping our stuff off at the hotel. Took a taxi back to the Cathedral...weird taking transportation other than my feet! There was standing room only so by the time the mass was done, I was done and snuck out of the Cathedral to sit outside and wait for Birgitta. I sat on a bench beside this family who felt sorry for me as I almost fell asleep sitting up. They talked away to me and finally figured out that I spoke English and kindly let me know that at 1:00, I could get lunch from the Nuns for 1 Euro. I must have looked pretty bad...well, I did look pretty bad!
A loose organization evolved and we decided to meet at the Cathedral at 6 to have a farewell dinner together. Arriving there, we found 50 or 60 people, mostly familiar faces. Lots of hugs and congrats. Some of us ventured off to dinner together. Most of the younger ones headed off to other ventures. It was a great way to end the journey though we were shocked to find out that our wine with dinner cost $18 euros each. We were so used to having the wine included in the 10 euro price of dinner that it was a complete surprise to us. City life has returned!
Off to the hotel and crashed into bed. Up at 5 to catch the flight to Madrid/ Paris and say goodbye to Birgitta. I managed to NOT get a cup of coffee or anything to eat until I arrived in Paris so I had a coffee and sandwich in the Paris airport.
An afternoon wandering in Paris, hanging out in the gardens by the Louvre and picking up a couple of souvenirs was about all I could manage. I still managed to make a whole lot of steps, even without trying and just meandering. Dinner at an Italian restaurant near the hotel and off to bed. I woke up in the night, totally confused about where I was and where Birgitta was. It took me ages to figure out that I was alone and in Paris and didn't have to get up and walk anywhere!
So, then the trip home was long but uneventful and I am now adjusted to being back in my own bed. I had the same "where am I" experience the first night in my own bed. AND I got a mosquito bite on my eye that night and my eye was swollen shut by morning. I looked like I'd been in a fight! Too funny.
So, it was an epic adventure and a great accomplishment. I still can hardly believe I managed it but I'm really glad I did. At this point, I don't see myself doing it again (as many do) but maybe something shorter and less crazy. The "community" of the Camino is a big part of the experience. It's like a United Nations experience, meeting and living with people from all over the world. Everyone is friendly and open and communicates and supports everyone else as much as they can. The day I fell and got road rash on my leg, the young Italian girl used some of the last of her water to wash my leg off. Bandaids and blister remedies are shared as is chocolate and hot tips on great places to stay or eat. Slogging through the last kms of the day is tough but as soon as you find your bunk and shower, you feel better and start planning the next day's trek. Evening dinners, mostly shared with whoever is staying the the same place or village, are great and always connect the group. It's hard to explain but it's pretty awesome. So grateful I was able to do this and that my body managed it.
So, off we go and have a pretty good hiking day. We arrived in Pedrouzo by noon, just as the heat started in earnest. We found our Albergue and had showers, did laundry, the usual chores and headed up to the main street (Calle Mayor) to find lunch...pretty hungry by then usually. The heat was like a punch in the face by then so we staggered up and found some salads and of course, Clara.
We saw some police and ambulances race by back the way we came and wondered what was up. Sadly, a pilgrim was killed crossing the highway just a few kms back on the second last day of the walk. It's horrible to think of it happening to anyone but how horrible to happen then and probably so far from home. Some of the highway crossings were scary, on curves and busy highways. In the heat, you just get into walking one foot in front of the other and maybe not pay close attention. I don't know what happened for sure but it shook everyone up.
The rest of the afternoon was pretty much lying on the bunk waiting for evening to come and the heat to abate. Salad again for dinner because that's all that I could manage.
The last day into Santiago, we were up and out of the Albergue by 5 am and into Santiago by 10. It was supposed to hit 30 by noon so we wanted to miss that. It got hot but much later so we had some extra time. We hiked in the gloom with a headlamp for more than an hour through the forest tracks. By the time the sun was up, we were into the industrial area and near the airport. It was a bit strange to suddenly be out of the rural area into industrial and when we found our spot for "second breakfast"...This one being the first as we only had a pastry and coffee from a machine in the Albergue before we left...14 kms before. It was strange going to a place where they asked you to keep your shoes on (on the trail, shoes come off right away when you sit down) and we could only get a cafe con leche and croissant. We've been having omelette for our second breakfast when we can as it sticks with us better than bread.
Arriving in Santiago means many more kms on sidewalks through the city to the Cathedral. The bagpiper under the archway to the Cathedral is pretty great to hear. The area has a strong Celtic influence which is lovely.
A loose organization evolved and we decided to meet at the Cathedral at 6 to have a farewell dinner together. Arriving there, we found 50 or 60 people, mostly familiar faces. Lots of hugs and congrats. Some of us ventured off to dinner together. Most of the younger ones headed off to other ventures. It was a great way to end the journey though we were shocked to find out that our wine with dinner cost $18 euros each. We were so used to having the wine included in the 10 euro price of dinner that it was a complete surprise to us. City life has returned!
Off to the hotel and crashed into bed. Up at 5 to catch the flight to Madrid/ Paris and say goodbye to Birgitta. I managed to NOT get a cup of coffee or anything to eat until I arrived in Paris so I had a coffee and sandwich in the Paris airport.
An afternoon wandering in Paris, hanging out in the gardens by the Louvre and picking up a couple of souvenirs was about all I could manage. I still managed to make a whole lot of steps, even without trying and just meandering. Dinner at an Italian restaurant near the hotel and off to bed. I woke up in the night, totally confused about where I was and where Birgitta was. It took me ages to figure out that I was alone and in Paris and didn't have to get up and walk anywhere!
So, then the trip home was long but uneventful and I am now adjusted to being back in my own bed. I had the same "where am I" experience the first night in my own bed. AND I got a mosquito bite on my eye that night and my eye was swollen shut by morning. I looked like I'd been in a fight! Too funny.
So, it was an epic adventure and a great accomplishment. I still can hardly believe I managed it but I'm really glad I did. At this point, I don't see myself doing it again (as many do) but maybe something shorter and less crazy. The "community" of the Camino is a big part of the experience. It's like a United Nations experience, meeting and living with people from all over the world. Everyone is friendly and open and communicates and supports everyone else as much as they can. The day I fell and got road rash on my leg, the young Italian girl used some of the last of her water to wash my leg off. Bandaids and blister remedies are shared as is chocolate and hot tips on great places to stay or eat. Slogging through the last kms of the day is tough but as soon as you find your bunk and shower, you feel better and start planning the next day's trek. Evening dinners, mostly shared with whoever is staying the the same place or village, are great and always connect the group. It's hard to explain but it's pretty awesome. So grateful I was able to do this and that my body managed it.
Saturday 6 June 2015
40 kms to go.
I know that I haven't posted for days. It has been a busy and long time. I walked 32 kms into Sarria and it was a gorgeous walk
but the last couple of hours were really hot and long. We booked a new Albergue deep into the old city and it was a really long way through the city to the Albergue. We were very tired but had the place to ourselves for several hours. We had dinner close by at a nice Italian place with some of the people we have connected with. We left early in the morning but still managed to get coffee before hitting the trail. We also had the best croissants there as well. They were fresh baked and whole grain.!
The trail to Porto marin was nice but a couple of kms longer than anticipated. We have been booking Albergue's ahead each day as the trail is busy and my walking partner, Birgitta is sending her pack ahead each day. she has Tendonitis in her leg so has to walk without extra weight. I sent mine ahead yesterday as a treat. It was nice but I sure noticed the extra weight when I carried it today from Palas de rei to Ribadiso. Lots of up and down today and almost 28 kms. The map says 25 but it lies! Beautiful Albergue in a small village on a river.
Birgitta and I were in need of a rest stop and couldn't find a good one so we made a bench out of a pine log, tromped down the stinging nettle and sat. Took our shoes off and had our bananas. We are a sight!
Coming into Portomarin is a test. These stairs in the heat just make you want to cry.
but we made it to the Albergue. Pretty hot and tired though. I felt so sorry for a tiny asian lady. She was hot and tired and kept asking us if we knew where the albergue was. Well, we were all a bunch of pilgrims who were sitting in the shade waiting for the gumption to take the next steps to find our bunks. None of us had any idea where it was. She kept going up and down the hill. I tried to get her to stop going down as she just had to come up again but she couldn't understand. I saw her the next day and she looked all right. I was a bit relieved.
The yard and building is lovely but the bunks are a bit wobbly. I'm on the top one tonight. Only one more albergue before the hotel in Santiago.
This has been a difficult challenge every day. Each time you think that the next day will be easier, some challenge arises from the distance to the ascent or descent or the surface of the trail or the temperature. It's never easy but then you arrive at the destination, get a bunk, have a shower and lie prone for a while after a bit of food and all is well again. Going to look for some dinner always results in a gathering of some of the people you've connected with and great discussions of the walk or life. It's hard to describe the community that develops and becomes so supportive. I'm going to miss the easy and flowing relationships.
40 kms to go and 2 hot days forecasted so we will be out of here by 6 am to try to get to Pedroza by noon tomorrow.
just a view of my legs and feet after the walk today. The knee wrap has been helping and the road rash is from the descent into Portomarin a couple of days ago. I managed to slip on the tiny gravel on top of the rocks. Nothing major, just looks nasty.
The trail to Porto marin was nice but a couple of kms longer than anticipated. We have been booking Albergue's ahead each day as the trail is busy and my walking partner, Birgitta is sending her pack ahead each day. she has Tendonitis in her leg so has to walk without extra weight. I sent mine ahead yesterday as a treat. It was nice but I sure noticed the extra weight when I carried it today from Palas de rei to Ribadiso. Lots of up and down today and almost 28 kms. The map says 25 but it lies! Beautiful Albergue in a small village on a river.
Birgitta and I were in need of a rest stop and couldn't find a good one so we made a bench out of a pine log, tromped down the stinging nettle and sat. Took our shoes off and had our bananas. We are a sight!
Coming into Portomarin is a test. These stairs in the heat just make you want to cry. 
but we made it to the Albergue. Pretty hot and tired though. I felt so sorry for a tiny asian lady. She was hot and tired and kept asking us if we knew where the albergue was. Well, we were all a bunch of pilgrims who were sitting in the shade waiting for the gumption to take the next steps to find our bunks. None of us had any idea where it was. She kept going up and down the hill. I tried to get her to stop going down as she just had to come up again but she couldn't understand. I saw her the next day and she looked all right. I was a bit relieved.This has been a difficult challenge every day. Each time you think that the next day will be easier, some challenge arises from the distance to the ascent or descent or the surface of the trail or the temperature. It's never easy but then you arrive at the destination, get a bunk, have a shower and lie prone for a while after a bit of food and all is well again. Going to look for some dinner always results in a gathering of some of the people you've connected with and great discussions of the walk or life. It's hard to describe the community that develops and becomes so supportive. I'm going to miss the easy and flowing relationships.
just a view of my legs and feet after the walk today. The knee wrap has been helping and the road rash is from the descent into Portomarin a couple of days ago. I managed to slip on the tiny gravel on top of the rocks. Nothing major, just looks nasty. Tuesday 2 June 2015
UP AND UP AND UP. RUTELAN TO FONFRIA.
So, today was the best day of the trek. We were woken up this morning by classical music and lights at 6am. It sounds awful but it was nice. Coffee and tostada at the Albergue and then on the trail by 6:30. The trail wound up through the trees and villages to the Village of O'Cebreiro, one of the most beautiful villages I have seen here and reaching it by around 9 was a bit of a celebration. So many people I have met were there and everyone was happy with their achievement. I am walking with Birgitta from Sweden /Spain. She is a good companion and we are planning to walk together tomorrow too, perhaps all the way to Santiago. Who knows?
The trail then continues up to the summit and another summit! So, yes, lots of climbing today til we ended up in Fonfria in a beautiful Albergue. There is nothing here but the Albergue, some barns and some cows.
Hopefully I will write from Sarria tomorrow.
into Galcia now.
just some of the views
reunited with Faia from the Bordeaux train station at O'Cebreiro
the next summit
our cafe / bar for second breakfast. The eggs are really fresh.
cool old church ruins.
The trail then continues up to the summit and another summit! So, yes, lots of climbing today til we ended up in Fonfria in a beautiful Albergue. There is nothing here but the Albergue, some barns and some cows.
Hopefully I will write from Sarria tomorrow.
into Galcia now.
just some of the views
reunited with Faia from the Bordeaux train station at O'Cebreiro
the next summit
our cafe / bar for second breakfast. The eggs are really fresh.
cool old church ruins.Monday 1 June 2015
On the home stretch!
From Molinaseca to Cacabelos to Rutelan.
I started out yesterday nice and early but wasn't able to get out of the Albergue. I sat down on the stairs and ate my yogurt while waiting for the owner to come and unlock the door. It was a bit strange to be unable to leave the residence and of course you wonder about emergencies. Well, no harm done and I walked into Ponferadda and had some breakfast before moving on. I later ran into my room mate from the night before. I had left the young men all sleeping but this one got up and going. He started his walk a couple of days ago so was all fresh and energetic though he has blisters and so is now walking in his crocs. I also saw Faia the girl I met in the train station in Bordeaux so many days ago. She is doing well and has been having a good experience. I stopped in Cacabelos quite early and got into a private Albergue with 4 beds in the room. Beautiful park and nice square in Cacabelos. It was Sunday and clearly the first communion for the very dressed up young girls and boys. The girls were dressed in white long lacey dresses. The whole families were there and so serious. It was great to see. I managed to get a nice bowl of curry for dinner. it was a nice change. I'm also loving the cervesa con limon a lot.(Clara in Spanish) I am having one after my walk each day. ....hmmm, could be a nice habit along with the little nap that seems to be required after the cervesa and lunch.
made me smile
would just move right into this place and maybe never leave
Across from the Albergue in Ruitelan
Today started out with a beautiful walk through hills and vineyards. Then a wall through a small city and the rest of the way was along the road through lots of villages. I ended up in a funny albergue in this tiny village. The cook is very funny, has been cooking for hours and is singing away while he is cooking. Reports say that the food is great here.
Off to hike O'Cerebrio in the morning. The sign in the restaurant says 162 kms left! The map says about 170. Whew
I started out yesterday nice and early but wasn't able to get out of the Albergue. I sat down on the stairs and ate my yogurt while waiting for the owner to come and unlock the door. It was a bit strange to be unable to leave the residence and of course you wonder about emergencies. Well, no harm done and I walked into Ponferadda and had some breakfast before moving on. I later ran into my room mate from the night before. I had left the young men all sleeping but this one got up and going. He started his walk a couple of days ago so was all fresh and energetic though he has blisters and so is now walking in his crocs. I also saw Faia the girl I met in the train station in Bordeaux so many days ago. She is doing well and has been having a good experience. I stopped in Cacabelos quite early and got into a private Albergue with 4 beds in the room. Beautiful park and nice square in Cacabelos. It was Sunday and clearly the first communion for the very dressed up young girls and boys. The girls were dressed in white long lacey dresses. The whole families were there and so serious. It was great to see. I managed to get a nice bowl of curry for dinner. it was a nice change. I'm also loving the cervesa con limon a lot.(Clara in Spanish) I am having one after my walk each day. ....hmmm, could be a nice habit along with the little nap that seems to be required after the cervesa and lunch.
made me smile
would just move right into this place and maybe never leave
Across from the Albergue in RuitelanToday started out with a beautiful walk through hills and vineyards. Then a wall through a small city and the rest of the way was along the road through lots of villages. I ended up in a funny albergue in this tiny village. The cook is very funny, has been cooking for hours and is singing away while he is cooking. Reports say that the food is great here.
Off to hike O'Cerebrio in the morning. The sign in the restaurant says 162 kms left! The map says about 170. Whew
Saturday 30 May 2015
Best day, worst day
So, I walked into Astorga yesterday. It's a beautiful city but I decided that I would take a bus through the area of concern for women walking alone and I didn't have a walking partner. The decision turned out to be a good one. I really didn't want to be in the city anyhow so I lucked into a bus 20kms to Rabinal del Camino at 1:30 and found a good Albergue there and ran into some people I haven't seen since Viana.
crux de ferro
fresh orange juice on the side of the trail
the hills were purple because of the heather blooms
and lots and lots of wild lavender.
So, on to todays walk and adventure. I was very happy to have coffee and tostada to start the day before walking. The hike up to the Crux de Ferro was wonderful. I am so happy to be back in the mountains. The views are vast. I got to the Crux de Ferro before 9 and put the note and special memento from Gwen on the cross. I left my stone and took some pictures. Then off to the summit. It was still pretty great and I was really happy about my decision to bus forward 20 kms and get back into the mountains. Then the descent started. OMG. It was rocky and steep and really tough. It seemed to go on forever and ever. I walked into a nice village around 11 and had a break and a bocadillo. I saved half of the bocadillo for lunch later. I was walking with Martin from Germany and he also had a bocadillo and took half for later. When I got to this room, I found out that I had his sandwich so I ate it anyhow. He went to the pilgrims Albergue so I don't know if I will see him again anyway. So, after the first difficult descent I was walking along the paved road for a while and then all of a sudden, I tripped over a rock or something and went flying. I fell face first down onto the pavement and gravel just as 2 guys on motorcycles went by. They just looked at me like I was doing something strange which I guess I was! Anyhow, I have a lump on my head and a little bit of road rash on my knee. My ugly hat saved my head and face from the gravel. I was shaken up but very lucky. Then I still had another hour of horrible descent down rocky paths and I managed to get through that without any problems other than sore feet from the rocks, and the heat. So, that's today's story. Oh and I am sharing a room with 3 young men. Its funny here. You never know who you will share with. Last night in the Albergue, I talked with a young man from Australia for the longest time. he was still in bed when I left the Albergue this morning. I may not see him again either.
crux de ferro
fresh orange juice on the side of the trail
the hills were purple because of the heather blooms
and lots and lots of wild lavender.So, on to todays walk and adventure. I was very happy to have coffee and tostada to start the day before walking. The hike up to the Crux de Ferro was wonderful. I am so happy to be back in the mountains. The views are vast. I got to the Crux de Ferro before 9 and put the note and special memento from Gwen on the cross. I left my stone and took some pictures. Then off to the summit. It was still pretty great and I was really happy about my decision to bus forward 20 kms and get back into the mountains. Then the descent started. OMG. It was rocky and steep and really tough. It seemed to go on forever and ever. I walked into a nice village around 11 and had a break and a bocadillo. I saved half of the bocadillo for lunch later. I was walking with Martin from Germany and he also had a bocadillo and took half for later. When I got to this room, I found out that I had his sandwich so I ate it anyhow. He went to the pilgrims Albergue so I don't know if I will see him again anyway. So, after the first difficult descent I was walking along the paved road for a while and then all of a sudden, I tripped over a rock or something and went flying. I fell face first down onto the pavement and gravel just as 2 guys on motorcycles went by. They just looked at me like I was doing something strange which I guess I was! Anyhow, I have a lump on my head and a little bit of road rash on my knee. My ugly hat saved my head and face from the gravel. I was shaken up but very lucky. Then I still had another hour of horrible descent down rocky paths and I managed to get through that without any problems other than sore feet from the rocks, and the heat. So, that's today's story. Oh and I am sharing a room with 3 young men. Its funny here. You never know who you will share with. Last night in the Albergue, I talked with a young man from Australia for the longest time. he was still in bed when I left the Albergue this morning. I may not see him again either.
Thursday 28 May 2015
Leon to San Martin del Camino 24kms
I left Leon this morning early. I started walking around 6am and arrived here just after noon. A couple of coffee stops and bought a bocadillo about 5 km back. I'm in an albergue in a small village on a busy road. Seems like most people here speak everything but English so I will have a quiet night. I walked today mostly with Barbara from Victoria. She is a psych nurse and it turns out that she is Paul Dumont's niece. It is funny to meet someone on the trail in Spain who is so closely connected. Hah. Well, she and her friend went on further so who knows if I will see her again.
There have been some pretty funny events on this trip. I'm not sure if I wrote about what the medication I bought turned out to be. Apparently it was Malaria medication! So that was not what I was expecting.
Another nice day, sunny and cool early in the morning and quite warm in the afternoon. I try to finish my walking around noon to avoid the heat. Tomorrow I should get to Astorga.
Oh, one more thing, the laundry is behind the building by the chickens.
hit the city, culture shock
oh but the paella and cervesa. mmm
lots of cultured forests here
just cool
There have been some pretty funny events on this trip. I'm not sure if I wrote about what the medication I bought turned out to be. Apparently it was Malaria medication! So that was not what I was expecting.
Another nice day, sunny and cool early in the morning and quite warm in the afternoon. I try to finish my walking around noon to avoid the heat. Tomorrow I should get to Astorga.
hit the city, culture shock
oh but the paella and cervesa. mmm
lots of cultured forests here
just cool
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