Best day, worst day

So, I walked into Astorga yesterday. It's a beautiful city but I decided that I would take a bus through the area of concern for women walking alone and I didn't have a walking partner.  The decision turned out to be a good one. I really didn't want to be in the city anyhow so I lucked into a bus 20kms to Rabinal del Camino at 1:30 and found a good Albergue there and ran into some people I haven't seen since Viana.

crux de ferro

fresh orange juice on the side of the trail

the hills were purple because of the heather blooms

and lots and lots of wild lavender.

So, on to todays walk and adventure.  I  was very happy to have coffee and tostada to start the day before walking.  The hike up to the Crux de Ferro was wonderful. I am so happy to be back in the mountains. The views are vast.  I got to the Crux de Ferro before 9 and put the note and special memento from Gwen on the cross. I left my stone and took some pictures.  Then off to the summit. It was still pretty great and I was really happy about my decision to bus forward 20 kms and get back into the mountains.  Then the descent started.  OMG. It was rocky and steep and really tough. It seemed to go on forever and ever. I walked into a nice village around 11 and had a break and a bocadillo. I saved half of the bocadillo for lunch later. I was walking with Martin from Germany and he also had a bocadillo and took half for later. When I got to this room, I found out that I had his sandwich so I ate it anyhow.  He went to the pilgrims Albergue so I don't know if I will see him again anyway.  So, after the first difficult descent I was walking along the paved road for a while and then all of a sudden, I tripped over a rock or something and went flying. I fell face first down onto the pavement and gravel just as 2 guys on motorcycles went by.  They just looked at me like I was doing something strange which I guess I was! Anyhow, I have a lump on my head and a little bit of road rash on my knee. My ugly hat saved my head and face from the gravel. I was shaken up but very lucky. Then I still had another hour of horrible descent down rocky paths and I managed to get through that without any problems other than sore feet from the rocks, and the heat.  So, that's today's story. Oh and I am sharing a room with 3 young men. Its funny here. You never know who you will share with.  Last night in the Albergue, I talked with a young man from Australia for the longest time. he was still in bed when I left the Albergue this morning. I may not see him again either.

Leon to San Martin del Camino 24kms

I left Leon this morning early.  I started walking around 6am and arrived here just after noon.  A couple of coffee stops and bought a bocadillo about 5 km back. I'm in an albergue in a small village on a busy road. Seems like most people here speak everything but English so I will have a quiet night.  I  walked today mostly with Barbara from Victoria.  She is a psych nurse and it turns out that she is Paul Dumont's niece.  It is funny to meet someone on the trail in Spain who is so closely connected.  Hah. Well, she and her friend went on further so who knows if I will see her again.
There have been some pretty funny events on this trip.  I'm not sure if I wrote about what the medication I bought turned out to be.  Apparently it was Malaria medication! So that was not what I was expecting.
Another nice day, sunny and cool early in the morning and quite warm in the afternoon. I try to finish my walking around noon to avoid the heat.  Tomorrow I should get to Astorga.

Oh, one more thing,  the laundry is behind the building by the  chickens.

hit the city, culture shock

oh but the paella and cervesa.  mmm

lots of cultured forests here

just cool

arrived in Leon

I know that its been days since I was able to post a blog. It has been because of poor wifi and then limited charge on my phone. I arrived in Leon after a nice short 18 kms walk this morning.  I have now bought a new power adapter so my phone is charged and now I have limited wifi.  I am trying to post anyhow.  The last few days have been all right.  I had a great day out of Terradillos de Los Templarios.  A long walk but I  chose the alternate route in the country so it was peaceful and very quiet. 26 kms with a long stretch of 8 kms at the end of the walk.  I was pretty happy to get to Calzadilla de Hermanillos that day.  Great albergue with a nice yard.  We went to a tiny shop for provisions for the next day and it was quite the experience.  It was really tiny and packed with stuff piled up on top of each other.  You could get fresh fruit and vegetables and cheese and even  pulpo if you wished. The store owner gave us olives and cheese to sample and then a guy came in looking for nails.  He had some but they were too big! There were brooms in the rafters and a case of lettuce and melons in the hall. I did get anew orange and some yogurt for the next
day.
The walk from Calzadilla de Hermanillos to Manilla de Las Mula was really hard.  It was 18 kms before coffee!  Actually, that was not the hard part.  The surface of the trail was awful and really hurt my feeto.  The rocks were embedded into the road and every step was rough.  I was cursing it by the time we found our way to a better track.  So it was about 18 kms on the bad road and 6.5 on good track.  Yep, I was pretty happy to get to the Albergue last night.
So , today into Leon was easy but lots of urban streets. It was funny to sit down and have a great lunch in a restaurant on the street in a strange city and see lots of people I know go by. Lots of waves and hello's. I got a hug from an American woman I met about 5 days ago and haven't seen since.

the Meseta

So, it has been a few days since I was able to post. The days have blurred together a bit.  I've had problems with my charger and poor wifi.  The day out of Hontanas was good.  Pretty long. 28 kms with a couple of steep climbs and cooresponding descents.

found this on the side of a church

scary sign but the descent was worse, shorter but worse.

my camera has started making mosaics all on it's own.  Maybe its haunted.  Anyhow, it's interesting.

the yard in the Albergue in Boadilla del Camino.

 Stayed in Boadilla del Camino last night at a fun albergue with a beautiful yard.  Today, believe it or not, I took the long route that ran along the river to enjoy the walk more and to limit the road walking.  It was a great decision as I found a great cafe overlooking waving wheat fields and with a restored old building.  Couldn't quite figure out what it was for but it was very cool.  Got into Carrion de Los Condes around 12:30 and booked into a monastery albuerge.  It is not so new or spiffy but neat anyhow.  5 euros.

Bo, from Sweden.  My walking partner for a few days

great rest stop, restored building. Never did figure out what it was used for.

At Carrion de Los Condes

Tomorrow I have to walk 16.8 kms before the first village so it could be a challenge.  I bought some bread and cheese and extra water and a banana.  It was interesting to see the other peregrinos shop for the walk. You would think that we will be in the wild forever.
 Alls well at the moment.  A bit of an "off" tummy this morning but seems ok now. Weather has been very cool and windy but is warming up again.  I'm hoping to get to Leon before the heat comes.  New shoelaces, charger and gel insoles. I hope that helps keep my feet well. I have 2 small blisters now that so far don't cause me any difficulty.  Hope to get to Terradillos de Los Templarios tomorrow.

now past Burgos

So, it has been an eventful  couple of days.  I hiked about 26 kms yesterday, after planning on a shorter day. The day started with a climb up out of villafranca to the first stop about 12.5 kms through a forest.  It was beautiful and misty but started to rain before long.  We got wet but I enjoyed the trail a lot.  Thenext we hiked to Ages, the archeological site with ancient man exhibition.  I was still feeling good so went on to the next village.  Ended up in a good albergue but with a really limited village.  No wifi and limited food and laundry.  Well we managed and the food was good anyhow.
So the big plan was to get the bus into Burgos this morning but we missed that turn off so walked in to the city.  Then found a bank and stop for my power adapter.  Then we tried to get a bus out of Burgos. ... long story short, we walked a really long way which included a detour of about 2kms and are in Taredajos. Tomorrow we are determined to have a  shorter day and find a good laundry  stop! It's too cold to do it today.  So, the map says that I have 465 kms to go to Santiago.  I  might make it.  My knee isn't any worse and my feet are all right, though sore and tired every day.  My thighs seem to be sore  this afternoon too.  Well thats it for now.

Redicilla to Villa Franca

Quick update.  I'm waiting to go eat dinner so will just do a little check in. WiFi in my room isn't possible.  24kms hot day.  Beautiful but seemed long probably because of the heat.  The next few days are supposed to be quite cool/cold. Hiking towards Burgos and am thinking of getting the bus through the industrial section into Burgo.  It is long and pavement so probably a good idea to skip if I plan to skip any. So , maybe tomorrow or the next morning will be bus time. Tomorrow is 12 kms before any village so I am bringing food and lots of water.  Coffee might not be anice option! So,several kms climb and then lots of kms before a village and cold to boot. The days here are always different.  On the  scenery front, the grapes and wheat are being replaced by peas,potatoes and wheat!
I am in a little  hostel again tonight 20 euros.  Yippee.  I am sure that I will be in albergues for the next few days.

Slogging up to another summit through rocks having decided that another 6 kms was a good idea

pilgrims bench in Burgos

Jacques

gate leaving Burgos

Camino cats

Navarette to Azofra to Redicilla del Camino

Another 2 day blog because of poor wifi and then I discovered that I left my power adapter at the Albergue in Navarette.  That albergue was a bit of an experience. It was 3 flights up and basically a renovated attic. Anyhow, we left there early as usual and when I tried to double check that I had all of my things I found I couldn't get back into the dorm room.  So I apparently left my power adapter and my broken glasses. So now I have new readers and am on the hunt for a new adapter.  I am in a hotel tonight in Redicilla del Camino so I have my phone plugged into the TV, slowly charging.
Yesterday was a challenging walk for no reason  but my sore knee. About 24kms but today I carried my pack and we walked around 28 or 29 kms and my knee is pretty good.  My hips are sore now though! I hope that my body cooperates soon.  Tomorrow is about 24 kms so should be OK and I have a really nice bed. I think that will help the hips too.  Great dinner with lots of perigrinos tonight in the little hotel.  I had chick pea soup and some chicken with peppercorns. And orange mousse.  So now I am really tired and going to bed.  Still walking with Craig the Australian but the other 2 have stayed behind and are spending 2 nights in a  Parador.  We are now also walking with  Jacques from Nantes France.  The group of pilgrims has changed significantly since Viana.  Much quieter and fewer.  Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and low 20's.

Viana to Logrono to Navarette Day 8 I think. ..

Today was blustery, a bit rainy, sort of sunny sometimes and some rainbows. We left Viana at about 7:30 after a good real breakfast.  It was a long walk mostly on Pavement through the city of Logrono.  I'm so glad I sent my pack forward today because of my sore knee and all the pavement.  My knee feels a lot better tonight. I haven't decided if I will send it on tomorrow or not.
I am still connected to the Australians as we seem to either walk together or bump into each other in the afternoon.  Yesterday was funny as we all ended up at the hotel.  It was so nice to have a nice room and bathroom. I think I will do that again in a few days.  When I was looking for someone lunch today, I arrived in the square and a celebration was underway in front of the church.  Some kind of cake celebration and a man gave me cake and wine. It was fun. Now we are all hunkered down on our bunks doing emails and blogs.  Dinner is in 2 hours.

Charlene, I  bought a new bracelet from the same woman just on the way into Legrono. 

lady I bought the bracelet from.  Same place, same lady

Logrono pilgrim statue

funny pilgrim pose in Navarette

Church in Navarette

Estella to Los Arcos to Viana

I had lousy Internet yesterday so no post. This will be for 2 days.  I'm in a nice hotel in Viana trying to rest and make my knee better.
Yesterday, we walked 3.5 kms in the dark before breakfast to Estella so we could get going before the heat was too intense. I made it to Los Arcos by 1Pm thankfully. I found a little pension for 30 euro for a single room with my own bathroom! That was a lovely luxury.  42000 steps.

Today I left by 6:15 and walked 6kms for coffee and breakfast!!! It tasted great even though it was a packaged muffin and banana.  Then I just kept walking slowly to Viana.  There were lots of ups and downs so by the time I got to Viana my knee was really sore.  So I splurged on this hotel and am resting. The room has a bath tub and I took a great bath as soon as I checked in! I reserved in a private albergue tomorrow so I can send my pack forward to give my knee a rest.  only 34000 steps today.  if I can't get more distance in each day soon, I think I will have to take the bus a bit to get to Santiago by June 8th.  Oh well, I have walked the last section before so I have the option.  Cross your fingers for my knee to improve!

it is hard to see but these are my shoes. They used to be red!

day 6 very hot

So I am sitting in the albergue casa magica about 3 kms from Estella. The heat stopped me today.  My knee is pretty sore too but ok when I was walking. It is really sore on the downhills though.  I am still with 2 of the Australians but one has gone ahead.  I walked on my own a lot today as it was so hot I just wanted to get going.  Charlene, I thought of you lots as I retrace our steps.  I trudged up the pine forest  hill today and I had forgotten how hard it was and 20 degrees hotter.  I have been dripping wet constantly.  One more day of heat and then it is supposed to cool down.  Whew.  So I had chips and a beer for lunch.  Ack! Well, dinner at the Albergue tonight with promises of ensalata mixta and lots of vegetables and Paella.  Smells good so far.  And I had a massage this afternoon too. I hope to get to Los Arcos tomorrow. 42000 steps today. Villateurta is the name of the Village I am in.

Craig, Gayle and Robert and I leave the Albergue in Pamplona early in the morning

The summit at El Perdon above Pamplona

Hot and sunny trail, just chugging along to get to the bunk before the sun bakes us.

Pamplona to Muruzabal Day 5

It was very hot yesterday so I was glad I had been to Pamplona before. It was just too hot to explore.  We stayed in a modern albergue with capsule beds. I actually slept last night!  Yeah.
Left Pamplona before 7 and hiked up to Alto de Perdana by 11ish.  Then hiked on to Muruzabal.  In a brand new Albergue with a beautiful yard so I am sitting outside listening to the birds singing.  We can get dinner at 6:30 so are just hanging around resting before that.  Had a beer and snacks to tide us over.  Tomorrow is likely the last day of hiking with the Australians as they are planning on taking a rest day.  I hope to continue on without the rest day though my knee really didn't like the descent today.  It was rocky and steep and really tough on the knees.  Thanks to Scott for convincing me to buy 2 hiking poles. ...really needed them today.  I think the cumulative wear and tear and the heat combined with the steep climb and descent made it hard today.  Nice to be a bit familiar with the area now. 37000 steps.

view from my lounge chair